Out and About from Qui Nhon – 15 May 2008
Over the last two and a half weeks I have had quite a few opportunities to travel through the countryside in the districts around Qui Nhon. This has been one of the delights of my time here. During these visits I have had glimpses into the lives of people who have very different lives than my own. I have seen amazing and interesting sights. As I have traveled to visit early childhood centres in the districts of An Nhon, Tay Son and An Lao, as well as the teacher competitions in Haoi Nhon, I have passed through hundreds of villages in the flat lands and hill country. Through the car windows I have watched the unfolding of sights that I had never even imagined. There is nothing in the world like the experience of traveling roads on which each turn brings forth another surprise.
As I have traveled, usually to the lulling sound of a car full of people talking in a language of which I have no
understanding, I have attempted to describe in my own mind the things that I am seeing. As well as pleasure in this experience I have felt frustrated by the lack of opportunities to take photographs. Possibly this has been good for me as it has allowed me to focus on looking at, rather than recording, the sights but it was a pleasure today to go on an orientation trip which included time to stop to photograph some of what we saw. Some of the highlights of my trips are as follows.Rice Paddies
Stretching out across the flat lands, and reaching up, in tiered layers, into the hills are the rice paddies. These are in different stages of growth because they are cropped up to three times a year. Typically the fields are divided into irregular, roughly rectangular shapes by low mud and stone dykes cleverly designed to control precisely the movement of water from one paddy to another.
Many of the fields, half grown, are a green for which we have no exact label. They are a bright, lustrous, emerald green under-lit by the sun reflecting on the water. In these fields the plants are thick and lush and the water is barely visible. Dotted across these fields are the bent figures of woman wearing colorful c
lothes and conical hats as they plant and weed while elsewhere flocks of large white herons stalk their prey amongst the rice plants. In other paddies, where the new plants are sparser, the water is the dominant feature. Apparently these are often also farms for small fish or shrimps. Big flocks of cream and brown ducks, driven by someone wielding a long flexible stick, are bought, “Ping like” from holding ponds down to the paddies to feast on snails. Fields that have been harvested are stubbly and often have ponderous buffalo and skinny zebu cows grazing amongst them. Empty field being prepared for the next crop have thick, heavy mud that is ploughed, sometimes with machines, but often by a farmer working an old hand plough behind one of the huge dark grey-brown buffalos. In the rice paddies on the flat lands, plantations areas, (predominantly coconut, papaya, jackfruit and banana), amongst which houses are nestled, are like floating islands.
Amongst the rice paddies many other crops and vegetables are also grown. Traveling in the car with Alan, a VSA volunteer who lives with his Thai wife in Laos but now working here in horticulture, is very interesting. He is able to spot and identify the myriad of different plants and trees and. Alan has explained to me many of the different methods being used by the farmers. An astounding amount of food is produced in this area. It seems that almost every available inch of soil and water is utilized in some way. The wide variety of vegetation means that like New Zealand the green of the countryside is rich and multi-hued.
Many of the fields, half grown, are a green for which we have no exact label. They are a bright, lustrous, emerald green under-lit by the sun reflecting on the water. In these fields the plants are thick and lush and the water is barely visible. Dotted across these fields are the bent figures of woman wearing colorful c
lothes and conical hats as they plant and weed while elsewhere flocks of large white herons stalk their prey amongst the rice plants. In other paddies, where the new plants are sparser, the water is the dominant feature. Apparently these are often also farms for small fish or shrimps. Big flocks of cream and brown ducks, driven by someone wielding a long flexible stick, are bought, “Ping like” from holding ponds down to the paddies to feast on snails. Fields that have been harvested are stubbly and often have ponderous buffalo and skinny zebu cows grazing amongst them. Empty field being prepared for the next crop have thick, heavy mud that is ploughed, sometimes with machines, but often by a farmer working an old hand plough behind one of the huge dark grey-brown buffalos. In the rice paddies on the flat lands, plantations areas, (predominantly coconut, papaya, jackfruit and banana), amongst which houses are nestled, are like floating islands.Amongst the rice paddies many other crops and vegetables are also grown. Traveling in the car with Alan, a VSA volunteer who lives with his Thai wife in Laos but now working here in horticulture, is very interesting. He is able to spot and identify the myriad of different plants and trees and. Alan has explained to me many of the different methods being used by the farmers. An astounding amount of food is produced in this area. It seems that almost every available inch of soil and water is utilized in some way. The wide variety of vegetation means that like New Zealand the green of the countryside is rich and multi-hued.
Houses
The houses continue to fascinate me. They range in style from traditional huts built from bamboo and palm fronds to modern multi-story apartments. In the country side the two most common types are small cottages and rectangular houses. The cottages are similar in design to New Zealand settler cottages. They are square fronted, built of brick, often unplastered, with tile roofs, a porch across the front and a lean-to at the back. The windows are frequently covered with a grill but unglazed.
The more modern rectangular houses also typically have a square front face but are long and narrow with a tall stud and flat roofs. Many are one story high but in some areas they are three or more stories, the top of which is usually and open air shaded area. They are usually plastered and are predominantly painted in an inviting palette of chalky colors; ochre, mint green, teal and cobalt blue. Usually the entire front of the ground floor is a concertina door which opens to reveal a room that may be at the same time a business, a garage, a lounge and a bedroom. In the villages the houses are surrounded with trees, brick, tin or wooden constructions for housing animals and tall, gourd shaped, piles of rice stalks stored as animal fodder.
The houses often have the date they were built on the front – despite their faded appearance they are often only ten to fifteen years old. Some newer houses have bright and contrasting shades of pink, green, blue or yellow. The love of color and pattern is frequently evident. Apart from the ugly blue plastic tarpaulins, used for practical purposes everywhere, the overall color and forms of the countryside are incredibly beautiful.
During an orientation tour yesterday we had the opportunity to drive along part of the coast south of here. There were some fantastic views of interesting looking beaches. I m really keen to go back and explore but it will probably be a bit too far (and hilly) for me to reach by bike even when my own one arrives. Some of the other volunteers use the VSA motorbikes. I am not sure if I have the confidence to give that a go. If not I will need to engage a local motorbike taxi for the trip.
There is a luxury resort on the coast rode. Apparently the manager (an Ozzie) is sympathetic to the plight of us impoverished VSA workers and allows us to use the pool and beach if we don’t get in the way of the patrons. I have not been to check it out yet but might do one day.
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