Tay Son Binh Dinh Festival - August 1-3, 2008

Flags, coloured lights and lanterns were installed all through the city

The bonsai display included some very big bonsai

The festival was an opporunity for many people to make some money. I have one of these nodding horses - for those of you who are insanely jealous orders can be taken!

In a country where street gambling is illegal we have to assume that these people are just intensely interested in the cerebal skills of the chess players.

As usual - no helmet for baby but what a gorgeous hat

Sadly New Zealand's import laws prevent me from returning with one of these "fabulous" examples of taxidermy.

I would love to have a bath - perhaps I could have bought this fully functional wooden one.

Driftwood and stones in unusual shapes are highly valued

These enterprising young men were selling mice, hamsters and turtles outside the gate. They even wanted to charge me a dollar for taking their photo.

Uncle Ho was well represented in the parade

Pat, Michael and Adeline - some of the other VSA volunteers

I loved the posters around town advertising the performers.

Some of the many drums that made an impressive sound across the city

There was no way I could capture the beauty of the lanterns that stetched across the sky like a golden milky way

One of the dragons that was made in the park - before its unfortunate encounter with a firework. One of the impressive things about VN is that these were constructed in the open park over several weeks but were never vandalised.

Some of the acts at an earlier show were very "YMCA"

This man from the Korean troupe is swinging a long streamer in a circle from his hat and skipping it under his body similarly to my description of the marshall arts competitor.

Most of the beauty/martial arts queens wore stunning gowns but some defintely needed our "Trinnie and Suzanna" guidance - this young woman seemed to have got confused and came dressed up as Wonder Woman.






Tay Son Binh Dinh Festival - August 1-3, 2008

This is the first time that this area has had a grand festival. There were some aspects that will need further development but I think that our little city did an amazing job. There was a wide variety if events and, despite the unexpected storms, most aspects were very professionally organized. The city went all out in preparations. Roads and footpaths were repaved, fountains built, parks created and everything over a foot tall was festooned with bright flashing lights or lanterns.

Unfortunately the makeover also included some less than wonderful aspects. Some homes of poor people and all of the road-side stalls were cleared away. The beach was bulldozed so recent rubbish was buried but older stuff was bought to the surface. Most of the fishing boats, including all of the old ones pulled up on the sand, were moved away and, to the distress of the owners, some of the beautiful woven coracles were burnt. I think that some of this sanitizing was unfortunate because it destroyed some of the special character of the area but maybe that is just a westernized view.

During the days leading up to the festival the city was buzzing. There were many people from the province, other parts of Viet Nam and even a quite a few foreigners in the city. Evenings are always busy here with a large proportion of the population relaxing in the numerous cafes, restaurants and bars or cruising around on their motorbikes and pushbikes but before and during the festival it was just crazy. The excitement in the air was marvelous but the traffic, which became increasingly erratic, was nerve wracking.

I have written about a couple of aspects of the festival but there were many other things that were interesting too. It is impossible for me to capture the whole event in words but I will write about some of the highlights.


CRAFT & BONSAI DISPLAYS, FOOD FESTIVAL

I have already posted some pictures from the craft display. It was fantastic. I returned several times because I was so delighted to see genuine crafts of the area. Some of these were decorative items and some were more practical in nature. Almost all seemed to require painstaking and lengthy processes for which the makers get very little monetary reward. I bought a couple of woven bags, some cotton scarves and two reed baskets and certainly did not haggle over the price that they asked. Despite taking so long to make each item was only a few dollars. They sell for considerably more in New Zealand – someone is making far more profit than the craftspeople!

The old wooden looms for weaving the reed and coconut fiber mats, cloth and fishing nets were fascinating. I kept thinking about how much Jenny and Catherine would have enjoyed them.

I tried several things at the food festival but the only one that was at all adventurous was ostrich kebabs. They were yum –tender and tasted more like beef than chicken.

The bonsai display was great too. Some of them were enormous (is that an oxymoron?) and many seemed to be very old. There were all manner of trees that had been made into bonsai. Some were transported to and from the site by truck but many were carried by the long suffering cyclo drivers or pushed in handcarts. Growing in solid concrete containers they were extremely heavy. Yesterday I heard a man muttering Troi oi (Oh my god!) over and over to himself as he struggled up our street with one of the larger ones.



FLOAT PARADE

On one of the evenings before the festival officially began there was a parade of floats. Like quite a few events I came across the floats in the afternoon by happenchance. Little information was available in English and even the locals seemed pretty uncertain of what, when or where most things were happening. They were completely blasé about this but I found it irritating to hear after the fact about events that I would like to have seen.

I met up with some of the other volunteers and we did manage to see the parade. It was great. The floats, which all looked as though they had been designed by the same person, were a wonderful mix of commercialism and propaganda. Each (of course) included a large portrait of the ubiquitous Uncle Ho. After the parade it appeared that some of the participants were not ready to give up their moment of glory – they continued to drive randomly around the streets for some time.

During the evening I had another in a current series of dreadful desserts. On the “try anything once principle” (actually that is not true – there are heaps of foods, dogs, cats, snakes, porcupines, frogs etc etc that I am not going to give the benefit of even a single trial) I sampled a new Vietnamese dessert. It was glass of crushed ice and a milky substance which had black beans in the bottom and a brown glutinous lump of goo floating in the middle. The beans were just like baked beans in consistency. To add to this textural nightmare were strings of dried coconut and little lumps of something sweet and hard. Two mouthfuls were enough to confirm that it was one of the most disgusting things I have ever attempted to eat – fortunately we were in a restaurant that I never intend to return to so I could abandon it. Wondrously Pat, Alan and Adeline all managed to eat theirs.

I cannot write in detail about some of my other recent dessert experiences because they were generously supplied by well meaning people who I would hate to offend. On two occasions I have had to overcome a gagging reflex as I have eaten things that “strange” does not even begin to describe.

The evening was topped off by yet another visit to the colorful fountain, some fireworks and the release of about twenty of the big paper lanterns that, fuelled by paraffin, drift up into the night sky. I thought that this was magical – little did I know that there would be an even more impressive display at the closing ceremony.




FRIDAY NIGHT – “GENERAL ART PROGRAM OF THE FESTIVAL’S OPENING CEREMONY”

Over the last few weeks the nearby “kite park” was been transformed. Colorful helium balloons replaced the kites and two large dragons were constructed from polystyrene on site (I will tell you about the sad end that befell one of them later). A stage and a tall grandstand festooned with flags were erected. There has been quite a bit of uncharitable speculation amongst the volunteers about the possibility of the grandstand collapsing. Debates about whether it would be preferable to sit at the top and fall from a great height or sit down low and be crushed by masses of people occurred. On the evening we did not have to choose as, once again, our “magic” VIP tickets cleared a path through the throng and we got excellent seats near the front. I felt quite guilty about this because we have done nothing to earn the status and thousands of locals could not even get an entrance ticket but, hypocritically, my guilt did not extend to giving up the privilege. One enterprising gentleman tagged on to our group and sneaked past the baton wielding army men but he did not succeed in getting all of the way to the front.

The front row, reserved for the very very important dignitaries and officials had narrow tables covered with long table cloths, about 20 floral arrangements and fabric bedecked chairs. You are probably wondering why I am giving you these trivial details but the relevancy of this information will be apparent soon.

We had gone early but the long wait for the show to begin was enlivened by watching various people without a VIP ticket attempt to install themselves in a seat. Those who encountered an army gentleman were vigorously persuaded to move on but some, confronted instead by young women hostesses, simply refused to move and after a battle of wills won the right to stay. Sitting in front of us was a young urchin who did not appear to belong to any nearby adults. He was the only truly naughty child I have encountered in Viet Nam. His antics managed to annoy us and all of the people around considerably but nobody could make him leave. He intently eyed up our bags and other belongings and only took himself off when he finally realized that we were going to resolutely clutch on to them. I imagine that some Fagin like adult had instructed him to see what he could lift from one of the foreigners.

After a tedious beginning in which every official was individually welcomed and applauded (fortunately accompanied by canned applause because the crowds’ enthusiasm for clapping wore out long before the list of people) the show began with the tremendous sound of more than fifty drummers and a flash of fireworks. Unfortunately my little camera was really not up to the task of capturing the images but the gorgeous costumes and professionally performed acts that followed were wonderful. The ‘emperor” and his elephants returned affording us a much better view than in the morning.

As the show progressed thunder rolled in the distance. This is a frequent occurrence at the end of a hot day and to date has seldom been accompanied by rain. The behavior of the elephants was increasingly unsettled and this proved to be a harbinger of what was to come. As they stood facing the crowd, each controlled by a handler who was pinching their ear lobes, they stamped and rocked and I felt very aware of just how big, and potentially dangerous, an elephant is.

Moments after the elephants had been led away there was a tremendous boom of lightening and thunder then the rain came down in torrents. Most Vietnamese people are like cats when it comes to rain. They hate getting wet, and because it had been a beautifully fine day very few had raincoats with them. In unison thousands of people jumped up; many dashed off to make their way home while others upended their chairs and held them over their heads. Within moments we were soaked to the skin. One of the funniest sights I have seen here was that of the row of officials crouching under their tables watching the show with the dripping tablecloths draped around their ears.

As the storm raged the performers resolutely continued. With the stage, which had ground level lights and electricals, awash they slipped and slid, endeavoring to complete their routines. Their sodden flags wrapped themselves around their bodies and the big screen blew out. Within a short time almost everybody, including the drenched officials and all of the other VSA volunteers, left but still the performers battled on. As the VIP area emptied I moved to the front row. The atmosphere amongst the hardy stayers became celebratory and the performers were loudly cheered for their efforts. For the first time since being in Viet Nam I was cold but some kind soul came and removed several chair covers and wrapped them around me – these made no difference to the rain but protected me from the wind and I was much warmer.

The VIP area was now almost empty but the army people continued to patrol deterring, with raised batons, any potential interlopers but when the remaining electricals blew and the show finally had to stop they lost all control. Immediately people ran across the field, seized one or more of the dozens of flower arrangements and made off into the night. In less than a minute all were gone and I started to head for home much amused. The entertainment had not yet finished however. Suddenly masses of fireworks blazoned into the sky. A tremendous show followed. It was like a battle between the gods and man as the roar and flashes of the almost continuous thunder and lightening competed with the booms and bursts of masses of fireworks. I stood transfixed, sheltering my upturned eyes from the pelting rain, until the last firework faded. It is an image that I will carry with me.

When I turned again to go home I realized that I had a problem – the smoke from the fireworks, held low by the rain, blanketed the park in a thick fog. It took some time to get my bearings so I set off somewhat hesitantly in what I hoped was the right direction. I waded along flooded roads as debris (including a dead chicken!) washed around me. As soon as I reached home I peeled off my clothes and, for the first time since I arrived, gratefully stepped into a hot shower.

I felt really sorry for the organizers and the performers, especially those who did not get on to the stage. They had clearly spent many hours preparing for this event. It was a shame that their efforts were curtailed by the unseasonal storm but it was never-the-less a great evening.


LANTERN AND FLOWER FESTIVAL

On Saturday the rain continued all day. As evening approached I wistfully watched the sky hoping for a break in the weather but it was not to be so I did not go to the lantern festival on the lagoon that I had been so looking forward to. It is one thing to stay out in the rain but it is quite another to set off to cycle several kilometers in the dark through heavy rain to see an event that may or may not have been cancelled. Apparently there were some lanterns so I should have made the effort.



MARTIAL ARTS FINALS

Binh Dinh Province is famous for its martial arts. This is not something that I have ever taken an interest in but in the spirit of ‘when in Rome” I set off, (on my own because none of the other volunteers were interested), early on Sunday morning to watch the finals of an international martial arts competition.

Blaring music was playing in the large battered gymnasium when I arrived. There were more foreigners present than I have seen in all of the time I have been here put together. Unsure whether or not I should sit in the small VIP area I found a place on the crowded concrete seating platforms. I was a little perturbed because as more and more people arrived I became hemmed in. It was apparent that, even if I found the show long and boring, I would not be able to leave unless I literally scrambled over crowds of people. Fortunately it turned out to be really interesting and I did not regret coming.

During the wait for the start it was interesting to compare the demeanor of the different teams who were sitting cross-legged in rows on the floor. The competitors in the teams from Viet Nam and other Asian countries mostly sat still and silent, seemingly self-contained and centered. In contrast many of the western competitors jiggled and stretched their limbs while talking excitedly and sometimes waving to friends and family in the crowd. It was an interesting study in different responses to excitement and anticipation.

Individually and in groups they performed a wide range of martial arts routines. In the fighting scenes some groups were about as convincing as the wrestlers who wrangle for “world titles” on television. With clearly choreographed precision they demonstrated their impressive fighting moves but one got no sense of actual battle. Other groups, particularly those who fought with swords, knives, chains and sticks, effectively conveyed an image of real danger.

I forgot to take my camera so have no pictures but several performances have stayed clearly in my mind. One was a monk who, dressed in saffron robes, rapidly thwacked a fan open and closed in time to his elaborate moves. One group astonished me with their acrobatics as they performed with sticks strung together with chains. One of their moves involved sitting on the floor with their legs stretched out in front. They then started rapidly swinging the chain around their heads. From this position, without putting their hands on the floor, they then repeatedly elevated themselves enough to pass the chain that they were swinging in a circle under their body. I have no idea how it is physically possible to jump up from that position – they must have incredible bum muscles!

Another performance that was fascinating in a “train wreck” sort of way was a man who jumped into broken glass. With my mouth open and fingers splayed across my eyes I watched as he launched himself from the shoulders of his helpers, barefoot onto a large pile of newly smashed glass shards, shattered mirrors and broken bottles. He completed several other feats culminating in standing on the glass with his throat resting on the tip of a spear while his trusty helpers smashed a pile of bricks they had rested on his bent back with a sledge hammer. I have not been particularly impressed when I have seen things like this on television but in the flesh it was horrifying and fascinating at the same time.

The competition concluded with the ceremonious awarding of large framed certificates for the officials who were lined up for numerous photographs and a very perfunctionary, offhand, distribution of awards to the competitors. The gymnasium was then filled with girls performing a long synchronized display involving jiggling of large fabric waterlilly flowers and leaves while assembling into a variety of formations.

I enjoyed seeing the artistry and expertise of the martial arts competitors but I still do not think that I will be lining up to see the next kung fu movie that is released.




THE CLOSING CEREMONY

On Sunday night we went again to the kite field for the closing ceremony. This time, on arrival, we were given goody bags that included raincoats but it didn’t rain. The show began to the sound of even more drums as the two ornate polystyrene dragons entered spurting fireworks from their mouths. This was met with a roar of approval from the crowd which turned to gasps as one of the dragons caught on fire. Despite prompt attention with extinguishers that enveloped us in clouds of vapor it was rapidly reduced to a sad melted wreck. The performances were again varied and entertaining. I particularly enjoyed a group from Korea whose routine included swinging long white streamers, attached to the top of their hats, in wide circles as they preformed a vigorous dance at times reminiscent of Cossacks. We were treated to fireworks again. I am a dedicated pyromaniac but this display was so long that I gave up watching when the back of my neck was aching from looking skyward.

The absolute highlight of the evening was a display of the lanterns I have described previously. This time some of them had fireworks attached to the bottom. One after another they were released from one end of the field until they spread across the sky like a golden milky way. It was incredibly beautiful but somewhat disturbing as some of them tipped in the breeze and descended in a mini Hindenburg-like ball of flame into the back of the crowd. Fortunately nobody appeared to be hurt.

The later part of the evening, after another round of oversized certificates for officials, was dedicated to the Miss Binh Dinh Martial Arts competition. This well rewarded (a hundred million dong) event was a combination of beauty contest and a martial arts competition. Although I am distinctly sartorially challenged, Alan and I amused ourselves by providing a Trinnie and Susanna critique of their costumes while their vital statistics, height and weight were announced as they paraded endlessly up and down the stage. I tried to stay the distance but by 10:30, when we were only partway through the individual displays of mostly middling martial arts talent I called it a day and went home to bed. Just before midnight I heard another lengthy firework display that announced the end of a really successful festival. Perhaps the chairperson of the organizing committee has a family investment in an explosives company!


This has turned into a really long blog but the festival was one of the best things that has happened since I came and I really want to remember as much of it is as I can.