Hoi An – Vietnamese Gingerbread – August 30th 2008

This is the ethnic fabric and silk shawl that I bought

The Japanese bridge with one of its inhabitants below

A monk who has found a peaceful spot to read

On prayer days almost every available spot becomes an altar

I caught this cat snacking in the altar offerings

I have managed to resist buying a lantern - I keep reminding myself I have low ceilings

Believe it or not I have been selective in the photos I have posted of Hoi An - I took over 300 in two days!!!!!



Hoi An – Vietnamese Gingerbread – 30th August 2008


Hoi An is a quaint city. Our young interpreter Nugyen was disappointed – several times he commented that his dreams had been destroyed because the city which he loved in his youth has been changed irrevocably by the might of the tourist dollar. I could see why he felt that way because it is touristy and cute but it is also utterly entrancing. I loved wandering around in the streets and narrow alleyways peering into the old buildings and courtyards. Our one full day passed very quickly and I have to confess that I did not visit some of the cultural sights that I should have seen.

One of the problems was that I was distracted by the shopping. Until now I have done very little of this in Viet Nam – sometimes it feels like the place is one gigantic Two Dollar shop. In Quy Nhon one can only buy practical items and junk. It is not a place for shopping. Even in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City the shopping is dominated by clothes, consumer goods and tourist trash but in Hoi An I found many things that I wanted to buy.

My big treat was a bedspread size textile made of old pieces of blue and green ethnic weaving sewn together in strips. The fabric is patched and worn and utterly beautiful. It cost a lot in Vietnamese dong but it was just what I wanted so I decided that I would not wait to see if I found another elsewhere cheaper. I also bought a beautiful silk shawl from a government shop. It is Vietnamese raw silk in a rich caramel/gold/brown with stripes of tan, green and cream on the ends. It is quite unlike any that I have seen in the more commercial shops. It took me ages to choose just one – if funds had allowed I would have left the shop laden down with half a dozen of them. I also bought a contemporary handcrafted cushion cover, several pieces of china and some cheap bracelets. It felt like utter decadence.

I also enjoyed taking heaps of photographs. The bright light and deep shadows made this difficult at times but the colors and textures, particularly of the walls, windows and doors are irresistible.

In the evening we had dinner at a riverside restaurant – first we checked out one recommended in the Lonely Planet but it was crammed with other tourists clutching their guides so we found a quieter establishment and had very nice grilled fish wrapped in banana leaves. It was one of the frequent Buddhist prayer days so as we walked home we saw many altars set up on the sides of the street. It interests me to see people burning the paper money and goods they are gifting to their deceased loved ones. Nugyen tells me that if it was a young man he may not only be given the usual motorbikes and cars but also images of women and even condoms – apparently no need or desire is left unmet!